Day Four & 5 In Nepal .......
The climate here is quite dry and sunny during most of the day so it's been quite easy to cruise around the city by foot only employing taxis when we know the walk is a long one through congested and smoggy main streets of this Nepali capital.
Once the insanity of Holi passed - oh and it seems that one of the things I left out about Holi is that it's not just about the tossing of water it's also about the hucking of handfuls of colored pigment on everyone in your immediate proximity - we started to take in Kathmandu to the full extent.
Daqy before yesterday we took a taxi to Patan, one of the three cities in Kathmandu. Patan's Durbar Square is packed with temples and they serve as excellent examples of Newari architecture. Like Kathmandu's Durbar Square it was also filled fruit, vegetable, grain, clothing, and souvenir vendors all trying to sway you into coughing up rupees for their particular product. But the atmosphere in Patan is much more mellow than in Kathmandu. The more relaxed environment allowed us the opportunity to chill out and really take in the place.
The temples resemble pagodas you might see in other parts of Asia but they are dark in color which to my eye sets them apart from structures seen elsewhere.
Yesterday after shopping like there was no tomorrow we made it over to Baktapur - this the last little city in Kathmandu we'd left to visit. Baktapur lays southeast of Kathmandu and the taxi ride to and from was probably the most interesting part of the trip. The journey really is the destination as is said.
This particular journey took us outside the metropolitan Kathmandu and in through more mixed neighborhoods where you could see crop fields and some livestock here and there. Buildings were in varied states - some being raised and some falling down. People sat outside in the dirty and dusty sometimes unpaved streets selling produce, giving haircuts or just mulling around their motorcycles. Have I mentioned the vast number of motorcycles in this city? It's insane.
This morning I find myself still in the midst of processing what I've experienced during this trip seeing as how we leave for Bangkok in a few hours and this will be the first leg of the journey home.
I didn't have a lot of expectations except that it would be something very different from most of the other traveling I've done. And to some extent that is/was true. Traveling is still traveling - it's about being foreign and how you choose to work with that, what you choose to focus on and what comes up for you in the process.
During the course of our time away I've had the strangest dreams; many latent and old fears have come to life. Early on I was annoyed; here I was on vacation, relaxing and all this ancient crud decided to make its way to the surface of my subconscious mind. After the 2nd night of this I just decided to embrace it hoping that in there somewhere would be good information for me to work with. There's a sentiment in Buddhism - open the doors and let everything in - because what you resist will persist. Maybe that too is what traveling is all about - not resisting what is different or foreign to you - but letting it in and embracing the knowledge of whatever shows up.
Pics will be posted as soon as I can get somewhere to dump all the data from my camera.
Namaste!
Monday, March 5, 2007
Saturday, March 3, 2007
Catching Up With Bhutan
Okay - - - so let's backtrack:
Day 1 Bhutan: We arrived in Paro via Druk air - the only airline that operates in Bhutan. We visited Paro Dzong - dzongs are fortresses built to house the Government and Monastic bodies for the region in which is resides. There are something like 25 Dzongs in Bhutan.
After lunch we drove to Thimpu; but this was not any ordinary drive. The road from Paro to Thimpu is under construction what this equates to are a lot of stops along the narrow snaking dirt road. The Bhutanese government employs people from India to work on the roads. This is hard work and as we were frequently stopped waiting for workers to clear their equipment so we could pass we caught quite a glimpse of how it is done. Men, women and small childern move rocks by hand, clear dirt, shovel and drill into the sides of mountains to create a wider birth for automobiles to pass. It was incredible and a little frightening to watch.
Day 2 & 3: These I mostly covered in a previous post - we traveled from Thimpu straight away to Punahka in order to attend the Punahka Festival. We stayed in Wangdue overnight at a lovely resort with a river running behind it. T'was delightful!
After we left the Punahka festival we walked through a farm and paddies to see the Temple of The Divine Madman and then made our way back to Thimpu.
Think I forgot to mention that at the festival we caught a glimpse of the new King of Bhutan and the Head Abbot.
Oh and did I mention the safe sex demonstration? Yes, well inbetween the mask dances there are basically these clowns who come out and entertain, taunt and tease the crowds of Bhutanese onlookers. Part of their schtick was carrying wooden phalluses. It took me a minute to figure out that the wooden sticks were actually phallluses and then eventually I saw one of the jesters distributing condoms to kids seated in the front viewing rows. There was much giggling and at some point the clown wooden phallus in hand demonstrated how the condom was to be used. It was brilliant. Bhutan has a limit on the number of childern a family have and I'm guessing that this demonstration is one of the ways in which they teach people from a very early age how to make sure they follow the rules!
There were also a fair number of billboards throughout all the cities we visited that made mention of the need to 'Know HIV/AIDs = No HIV/AIDS'. Again, I was impressed.
Day 4: Our first full day in Thimpu; this is a more 'modern' city and it is the capital. Visually speaking this means that there are newer building which tower above the two story limit of other places (like Paro for example).
We visited Bhutan's Textile Museum and their Folk Heritage Museum. Bhutanese are known for their textiles. They work with a loom and weave intricate and colorful patterns from silk, cotton and wool. My mom and I snagged a couple of scarves from the museum gift shop - they'll make excellent wall hangings.
The Folk Heritage Museum is basically a replica of a typical Bhutanese farm house.
Day 5: We visted the National Library. Eventually made our way back to Paro for and visited the National Museum, the Ruined Dzong and Mt. Jhomalhari.
Day 6: I took a 4 + hour hike up to Tiger's Nest Monastery. My mom decided to sit this one out. It was a nice and very steadily challenging hike. The prize at the end was seeing the Monastery built in the perch were Guru Rinpoche was said to have descended on the back of his favorite consort who'd taken the form of a flying tiger.
Day 7: Home again, home again, well back to Nepal anyway.
I'm still sorting out my thoughts and impressions of Bhutan. Will blog more about that later. Traveling there was an experience that I'm glad to have had. It's a strange and quietly fantastic culture that to my eye remains unadulterated by the likes of Western consumerism and capitalism. Just to give you a taste, they once had MTV and Wrestling but after some time decided to take it away.
Day 1 Bhutan: We arrived in Paro via Druk air - the only airline that operates in Bhutan. We visited Paro Dzong - dzongs are fortresses built to house the Government and Monastic bodies for the region in which is resides. There are something like 25 Dzongs in Bhutan.
After lunch we drove to Thimpu; but this was not any ordinary drive. The road from Paro to Thimpu is under construction what this equates to are a lot of stops along the narrow snaking dirt road. The Bhutanese government employs people from India to work on the roads. This is hard work and as we were frequently stopped waiting for workers to clear their equipment so we could pass we caught quite a glimpse of how it is done. Men, women and small childern move rocks by hand, clear dirt, shovel and drill into the sides of mountains to create a wider birth for automobiles to pass. It was incredible and a little frightening to watch.
Day 2 & 3: These I mostly covered in a previous post - we traveled from Thimpu straight away to Punahka in order to attend the Punahka Festival. We stayed in Wangdue overnight at a lovely resort with a river running behind it. T'was delightful!
After we left the Punahka festival we walked through a farm and paddies to see the Temple of The Divine Madman and then made our way back to Thimpu.
Think I forgot to mention that at the festival we caught a glimpse of the new King of Bhutan and the Head Abbot.
Oh and did I mention the safe sex demonstration? Yes, well inbetween the mask dances there are basically these clowns who come out and entertain, taunt and tease the crowds of Bhutanese onlookers. Part of their schtick was carrying wooden phalluses. It took me a minute to figure out that the wooden sticks were actually phallluses and then eventually I saw one of the jesters distributing condoms to kids seated in the front viewing rows. There was much giggling and at some point the clown wooden phallus in hand demonstrated how the condom was to be used. It was brilliant. Bhutan has a limit on the number of childern a family have and I'm guessing that this demonstration is one of the ways in which they teach people from a very early age how to make sure they follow the rules!
There were also a fair number of billboards throughout all the cities we visited that made mention of the need to 'Know HIV/AIDs = No HIV/AIDS'. Again, I was impressed.
Day 4: Our first full day in Thimpu; this is a more 'modern' city and it is the capital. Visually speaking this means that there are newer building which tower above the two story limit of other places (like Paro for example).
We visited Bhutan's Textile Museum and their Folk Heritage Museum. Bhutanese are known for their textiles. They work with a loom and weave intricate and colorful patterns from silk, cotton and wool. My mom and I snagged a couple of scarves from the museum gift shop - they'll make excellent wall hangings.
The Folk Heritage Museum is basically a replica of a typical Bhutanese farm house.
Day 5: We visted the National Library. Eventually made our way back to Paro for and visited the National Museum, the Ruined Dzong and Mt. Jhomalhari.
Day 6: I took a 4 + hour hike up to Tiger's Nest Monastery. My mom decided to sit this one out. It was a nice and very steadily challenging hike. The prize at the end was seeing the Monastery built in the perch were Guru Rinpoche was said to have descended on the back of his favorite consort who'd taken the form of a flying tiger.
Day 7: Home again, home again, well back to Nepal anyway.
I'm still sorting out my thoughts and impressions of Bhutan. Will blog more about that later. Traveling there was an experience that I'm glad to have had. It's a strange and quietly fantastic culture that to my eye remains unadulterated by the likes of Western consumerism and capitalism. Just to give you a taste, they once had MTV and Wrestling but after some time decided to take it away.
Friday, March 2, 2007
Happy Holi!
Well we are back in Kathmandu and it seems I inadvertently planned for us to be here during the Holi Festival. Another festival, sounds great, right?!
The Holi Festival is like a rite of Spring; it's a reminder to people that Spring and the Monsoon season are coming. The main civilian method of participation in this celebration is to 'play Holi' which equates to throwing colored water on your friends, neighbors and random passerbys.
My mom and I got a whiff of the game last night after we arrived back here from Bhutan. We took a stroll through Thamel, the tourist ghetto of Kathmandu. At some point water came pouring out a window above me and onto my head. I was miffed to say the least not having a clue as to what was in the water or why I was a target. Then we spotted kids with water bombs (clear plastic baggies filled with water) waiting for just the right moment to nail a hapless tourist right in the ass. I thought for awhile these were just games Nepali kiddies played on foreign visitors but then it was explained to us that there was to be a festival and the water works were part of it.
This morning we decided to damn to torpedos or better put - water bombs - and walk from our hotel to Durbur Square in Kathmandu. We mapped out a path to get there and I had it in mind that if things got really crazy we would duck into the National Museum to escape the festivites.
And so it began, kids from every direction ducked out from shops, windows and just plain in the middle of the road taunting my mom and I with little baggies full over water. Needless to say we got nailed a time or two (at least). We walked for some time and then decided to hell with it and hopped into a rickshaw to make our way down to Durbar Square. Wise move I realized after catching a glimpse of some Westerners not only drenched but with color all over their face, hair and clothing.
The rickshaw presents another interesting experience of course and that is navigating the narrow streets of Kathmandu and competing with taxis, scooters and motorcycles for room on the road. It's quite an experience, horns are honked continually, engines die here and there as taxi drivers have to make their way around skinny corners in low gear and there we were in a covered rickshaw powered by a fairly thin Nepali man in pedaling the bicycle in sandals.
Durbar Square was nothing short of amazing. Temple after temple, angry goddesses, people dressed in colorful clothing, water balloon fights, vegetables and fruits being hawked on the street.
Kathmandu provides a riot for the senses. In retrospect the capital of Bhutan, Thimpu is a sedate little town nestled in a valley with sleeping giant mountains on both sides.
I need to blog more about the last week in Bhutan and seeing as how things will be insane outside here for the afternoon it seems like a good time to catch up. We've been assured that the water portion of the Holi program ends at sunset today!
The Holi Festival is like a rite of Spring; it's a reminder to people that Spring and the Monsoon season are coming. The main civilian method of participation in this celebration is to 'play Holi' which equates to throwing colored water on your friends, neighbors and random passerbys.
My mom and I got a whiff of the game last night after we arrived back here from Bhutan. We took a stroll through Thamel, the tourist ghetto of Kathmandu. At some point water came pouring out a window above me and onto my head. I was miffed to say the least not having a clue as to what was in the water or why I was a target. Then we spotted kids with water bombs (clear plastic baggies filled with water) waiting for just the right moment to nail a hapless tourist right in the ass. I thought for awhile these were just games Nepali kiddies played on foreign visitors but then it was explained to us that there was to be a festival and the water works were part of it.
This morning we decided to damn to torpedos or better put - water bombs - and walk from our hotel to Durbur Square in Kathmandu. We mapped out a path to get there and I had it in mind that if things got really crazy we would duck into the National Museum to escape the festivites.
And so it began, kids from every direction ducked out from shops, windows and just plain in the middle of the road taunting my mom and I with little baggies full over water. Needless to say we got nailed a time or two (at least). We walked for some time and then decided to hell with it and hopped into a rickshaw to make our way down to Durbar Square. Wise move I realized after catching a glimpse of some Westerners not only drenched but with color all over their face, hair and clothing.
The rickshaw presents another interesting experience of course and that is navigating the narrow streets of Kathmandu and competing with taxis, scooters and motorcycles for room on the road. It's quite an experience, horns are honked continually, engines die here and there as taxi drivers have to make their way around skinny corners in low gear and there we were in a covered rickshaw powered by a fairly thin Nepali man in pedaling the bicycle in sandals.
Durbar Square was nothing short of amazing. Temple after temple, angry goddesses, people dressed in colorful clothing, water balloon fights, vegetables and fruits being hawked on the street.
Kathmandu provides a riot for the senses. In retrospect the capital of Bhutan, Thimpu is a sedate little town nestled in a valley with sleeping giant mountains on both sides.
I need to blog more about the last week in Bhutan and seeing as how things will be insane outside here for the afternoon it seems like a good time to catch up. We've been assured that the water portion of the Holi program ends at sunset today!
Monday, February 26, 2007
Return To Thimpu After Punahka and Wangdue
We just arrived in Thimpu after leaving it yesterday morning. We spent last night in the town of Wangdue which is close to Punahka town where we attended the festival.
The festival was pretty interesting; highlights include mask dances, a renactment of the failed invasion of the Tibetans, phallic symbols everywhere and safe sex demonstrations (more about that later).
The festivals are for the Bhutanese people of the town in which they occur. The celebration takes place in the Dzong of the town; Dzongs are town centers that look something like fortresses where the monastic and government bodies of the town live and work. There is a courtyard in the center of the Dzong where demonstrations and festivals take place.
Last night after our first day at the festival we drove to Wangdue to spend the night in a resort. The resort faced the Wandue river and was quite lovely and peaceful.
In the morning we drove back to Punahka for our 2nd day of the festival and the first day of a typical Teschu. It was today that we witnessed the mask dances.
After the festival and lunch we took a walk through some rice, corn, mustard, wheat, garlic and onion fields and made our way to the Temple of the Divine Madman, another heroic figure of Bhutanese lore. This particular temple is known as a fertility temple; people visit it if they wish to have childern and after a child is born they come to this temple to receive a name for the child. People in Bhutan only have a given name, no family name and their names are all Buddhist terms. For example, our guide whos is absolutely delightful is named Karma and our driver is named Lakee which means 'luck'.
Bhutan is indeed a fascinating place where there is no shortage of the fantastical.
The festival was pretty interesting; highlights include mask dances, a renactment of the failed invasion of the Tibetans, phallic symbols everywhere and safe sex demonstrations (more about that later).
The festivals are for the Bhutanese people of the town in which they occur. The celebration takes place in the Dzong of the town; Dzongs are town centers that look something like fortresses where the monastic and government bodies of the town live and work. There is a courtyard in the center of the Dzong where demonstrations and festivals take place.
Last night after our first day at the festival we drove to Wangdue to spend the night in a resort. The resort faced the Wandue river and was quite lovely and peaceful.
In the morning we drove back to Punahka for our 2nd day of the festival and the first day of a typical Teschu. It was today that we witnessed the mask dances.
After the festival and lunch we took a walk through some rice, corn, mustard, wheat, garlic and onion fields and made our way to the Temple of the Divine Madman, another heroic figure of Bhutanese lore. This particular temple is known as a fertility temple; people visit it if they wish to have childern and after a child is born they come to this temple to receive a name for the child. People in Bhutan only have a given name, no family name and their names are all Buddhist terms. For example, our guide whos is absolutely delightful is named Karma and our driver is named Lakee which means 'luck'.
Bhutan is indeed a fascinating place where there is no shortage of the fantastical.
Saturday, February 24, 2007
There Is A Reason Bhutan Is Called The Last Shangri-La
We arrived in Paro yesterday after a 45 minute flight from Kathmandu during which we got an amazing view of the Himalayan mountain range including Mt. Everest. Seeing those beauties from up in the air was nothing short of breath taking. There is a serenity and also something quite formidable about that mountain range. I understand the allure they hold for climbers and mountaineers but I also think it's completely mad to attempt to climb them.
I have about 5 minutes before we check out of the hotel so I'll just give you the quick highlights.
Bhutan's towns Paro and Thimpu (the country's capital) sit in a valley surrounded by wooded mountain sides. All of the architecture must be made to a structural and aesthetic standard creating the effect of uniformity and purpose. All of the buildings are painted using heavy Buddhist iconography and color.
This morning we drive to Punhaka to witness a festival. Today is the first day of the festival so I'm told we will witness the mask dances that these festivals are known for.
The food has been unusual and delicious. More about that later.
The weather is stellar - warm (60-70 degrees farenheit) with clear skies. I couldn't have asked for a better holiday.
I have about 5 minutes before we check out of the hotel so I'll just give you the quick highlights.
Bhutan's towns Paro and Thimpu (the country's capital) sit in a valley surrounded by wooded mountain sides. All of the architecture must be made to a structural and aesthetic standard creating the effect of uniformity and purpose. All of the buildings are painted using heavy Buddhist iconography and color.
This morning we drive to Punhaka to witness a festival. Today is the first day of the festival so I'm told we will witness the mask dances that these festivals are known for.
The food has been unusual and delicious. More about that later.
The weather is stellar - warm (60-70 degrees farenheit) with clear skies. I couldn't have asked for a better holiday.
Friday, February 23, 2007
Boudhanath and Pashupatinath
We arrived in Nepal early afternoon yesterday via a lovely flight on Thai Airways from Bangkok. The new international airport in Bangkok which I would bother to google and add proper link for except my net connection is incredibly slow at the moment (you should see the row of batteries sitting next to me; I think they must power the joint).
Upon arrival we got into a taxi and headed to Boudhanath which is just north of the airport. The drive was intense as cab rides in any city can be and the driver's 'friend' who accompanied us was on the make. Like lambs to the slaughter tourists pour out of the airport and we were not an exception as we found out later that we paid way too much for the ride to our guest house in Boudhanath. I figure there's one of those on every trip and at least we now know how much a cab ride to the airport should cost.
The Lotus Guest House - our home for 2 nights before we head out to Bhutan is on the north side of town. Our 'deluxe' room is simple and small by western standards but the grounds of the house are so peaceful it's a delight to retreat to.
Boudhanatha's most important feature is its Tibetan stupa; let it be said the stupa is amazing. There is a large Tibetan community that lives here and as such there are some 30 gompas (monasteries) in the neighborhood. Everywhere you turn you'll see Tibetan monks of every age head shaved and dressed in red robes. Watching the little boy monks play what looks like kickball in the gompa yards brings a smile to my face. These people exude a natural grace that is very quietly inspirational. Needless to say I'm pleased I decided to bring us here first; it's provided a gentle introduction to Nepal and Himalayan culture.
After checking out Boudhanath last night we decided to walk to nearby Pashupatinath this morning where one the largest Hindu temple in the subcontinent rests. The walk along the Nepali highway was longer than we expected and crossing the main roads a bit nerve racking what with cars, buses, motorcycles whizzing about. Hindus and sadhus from all over this part of Asia make pilgrimages to the temple and while anyone may walk around the area non-Hindus are not allowed inside. The Bagmati river flows through Pashipatinath and along the river we found creamtion grounds and indeed a few cremations taking place.
The energy at Pashupatinath is quite different than in Boudhanath. My mother and I were not only allowed inside the Tibetan gompas but asked to sit with the monks to join them in meditation. Aside from a few begging kids hanging out on the outskirts of the stupa circle we were not hustled for money in Boudhanath but in Pashupatinath the tourists get bombarded with women selling beads, men dressed in orange robes ready to smear red pigment on your forehead in exchange for some rupees and seemingly well intentioned men who show up to guide you through the area for a small fee. Ah! To be a tourist.
When we return to Kathmandu after our week in Bhutan we will stay in the center of town. I'm wondering just how full on it's going to be after experiencing the quiet of Boudhanath.
I'm not suffering jet lag too terribly at this point. Mostly the only thing standing in the way of my sleep were the barking dogs that woke both me and my mom up around 3:30am. I've read other travelers complain of Himalayan hounds disrupting their slumber so we brought ear plugs. It was just a riot in a way - we saw loads of dogs around the stupa yesterday afternoon but nearly every single one of them was curled up sleeping while hordes of people walked around them. I guess we simply trade places at nightfall.
As I reread and edit this entry I remember something I was thinking earlier today - there really aren't words to describe the experience here. I can recount aspects of the adventure but it is a land and people so very different from anything I've ever experienced to attempt to describe them just seems a bit futile.
I am taking photos and look forward to sharing those upon my return. In the meanwhile hope you're enjoying what little I can share from here!
Namaste.
PS - Have no clue if I'll be able to post from Bhutan!
Upon arrival we got into a taxi and headed to Boudhanath which is just north of the airport. The drive was intense as cab rides in any city can be and the driver's 'friend' who accompanied us was on the make. Like lambs to the slaughter tourists pour out of the airport and we were not an exception as we found out later that we paid way too much for the ride to our guest house in Boudhanath. I figure there's one of those on every trip and at least we now know how much a cab ride to the airport should cost.
The Lotus Guest House - our home for 2 nights before we head out to Bhutan is on the north side of town. Our 'deluxe' room is simple and small by western standards but the grounds of the house are so peaceful it's a delight to retreat to.
Boudhanatha's most important feature is its Tibetan stupa; let it be said the stupa is amazing. There is a large Tibetan community that lives here and as such there are some 30 gompas (monasteries) in the neighborhood. Everywhere you turn you'll see Tibetan monks of every age head shaved and dressed in red robes. Watching the little boy monks play what looks like kickball in the gompa yards brings a smile to my face. These people exude a natural grace that is very quietly inspirational. Needless to say I'm pleased I decided to bring us here first; it's provided a gentle introduction to Nepal and Himalayan culture.
After checking out Boudhanath last night we decided to walk to nearby Pashupatinath this morning where one the largest Hindu temple in the subcontinent rests. The walk along the Nepali highway was longer than we expected and crossing the main roads a bit nerve racking what with cars, buses, motorcycles whizzing about. Hindus and sadhus from all over this part of Asia make pilgrimages to the temple and while anyone may walk around the area non-Hindus are not allowed inside. The Bagmati river flows through Pashipatinath and along the river we found creamtion grounds and indeed a few cremations taking place.
The energy at Pashupatinath is quite different than in Boudhanath. My mother and I were not only allowed inside the Tibetan gompas but asked to sit with the monks to join them in meditation. Aside from a few begging kids hanging out on the outskirts of the stupa circle we were not hustled for money in Boudhanath but in Pashupatinath the tourists get bombarded with women selling beads, men dressed in orange robes ready to smear red pigment on your forehead in exchange for some rupees and seemingly well intentioned men who show up to guide you through the area for a small fee. Ah! To be a tourist.
When we return to Kathmandu after our week in Bhutan we will stay in the center of town. I'm wondering just how full on it's going to be after experiencing the quiet of Boudhanath.
I'm not suffering jet lag too terribly at this point. Mostly the only thing standing in the way of my sleep were the barking dogs that woke both me and my mom up around 3:30am. I've read other travelers complain of Himalayan hounds disrupting their slumber so we brought ear plugs. It was just a riot in a way - we saw loads of dogs around the stupa yesterday afternoon but nearly every single one of them was curled up sleeping while hordes of people walked around them. I guess we simply trade places at nightfall.
As I reread and edit this entry I remember something I was thinking earlier today - there really aren't words to describe the experience here. I can recount aspects of the adventure but it is a land and people so very different from anything I've ever experienced to attempt to describe them just seems a bit futile.
I am taking photos and look forward to sharing those upon my return. In the meanwhile hope you're enjoying what little I can share from here!
Namaste.
PS - Have no clue if I'll be able to post from Bhutan!
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
Crossing The International Date Line On Our Way To The Tsechu
Okay, we're now in Japan for our little layover on the way to Bangkok. Narita airport is far more subdued than I imagined a Japanese airport this close to Tokyo might be.
No real excitement except for having seen 4 movies over the course of 11 hours inflight. I think I am officially caught up on mediocre America films. And so you know, I still think Russell Crowe is a terrible actor.
Onto more interesting things, one of the cool things we're going to do while in Bhutan is attend a Tsechu. Tsechus are religious festivals of Drukpa Buddhism. The focal point of the tsechus are the sacred Cham Dances, which are banned in neighbouring Tibet. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingmapa teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
Most tsechus also feature the unfurling of a thongdrel (or thangka) - a large tapestry typically depicting a seated Guru Rinpoche surrounded by holy beings, the mere viewing of which is said to cleanse the viewer of sin. The thongdrel is unrolled before dawn and rolled up by morning.
Here are some visuals courtesy of utube:
No real excitement except for having seen 4 movies over the course of 11 hours inflight. I think I am officially caught up on mediocre America films. And so you know, I still think Russell Crowe is a terrible actor.
Onto more interesting things, one of the cool things we're going to do while in Bhutan is attend a Tsechu. Tsechus are religious festivals of Drukpa Buddhism. The focal point of the tsechus are the sacred Cham Dances, which are banned in neighbouring Tibet. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingmapa teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
Most tsechus also feature the unfurling of a thongdrel (or thangka) - a large tapestry typically depicting a seated Guru Rinpoche surrounded by holy beings, the mere viewing of which is said to cleanse the viewer of sin. The thongdrel is unrolled before dawn and rolled up by morning.
Here are some visuals courtesy of utube:
Monday, February 19, 2007
Time, Money And Weather
So .... T minus I don't know how many hours .... or what T minus blah actually means.
We're leaving tomorrow morning; my mom joined me here in San Francisco this afternoon we're about to order to take-out Chinese while we sit and go through the three different currency exchange rates, weather and time changes we're about to get to live through.
Here's the breakdown:
Thailand
GMT/UTC + 07:00 hour
15 Hours Ahead Pacific Standard Time
300 Thai Bhat = 10 US Dollars
Weather: 78 degrees Farenheit currently
Nepal
GMT/UTC + 05:45 hour
13 Hours And 45 Minutes Ahead Of Pacific Standard Time
707.55 Nepali Rupee = 10 US Dollars
Weather: 62 degrees Farenheit currently
Bhutan
GMT/UTC + 06:00 hour
14 Hours Ahead Pacific Standard Time
440 Bhutanese Ngultrum = 10 US Dollars
Weather: 50 degrees Farenheit currently
So, yes, for those of you paying attention there is a 15 minutes time difference between Nepal and Bhutan.
The weather for at least the next 5 days is looking pretty good all the way around. Hopefully this portends very smooth flight schedules.
We're leaving tomorrow morning; my mom joined me here in San Francisco this afternoon we're about to order to take-out Chinese while we sit and go through the three different currency exchange rates, weather and time changes we're about to get to live through.
Here's the breakdown:
Thailand
GMT/UTC + 07:00 hour
15 Hours Ahead Pacific Standard Time
300 Thai Bhat = 10 US Dollars
Weather: 78 degrees Farenheit currently
Nepal
GMT/UTC + 05:45 hour
13 Hours And 45 Minutes Ahead Of Pacific Standard Time
707.55 Nepali Rupee = 10 US Dollars
Weather: 62 degrees Farenheit currently
Bhutan
GMT/UTC + 06:00 hour
14 Hours Ahead Pacific Standard Time
440 Bhutanese Ngultrum = 10 US Dollars
Weather: 50 degrees Farenheit currently
So, yes, for those of you paying attention there is a 15 minutes time difference between Nepal and Bhutan.
The weather for at least the next 5 days is looking pretty good all the way around. Hopefully this portends very smooth flight schedules.
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Meanwhile In Nepal .....
A few people asked me if it is safe to travel in Nepal. The short answer is - I hope so.
It seems there have been a few issues with some Maoists in Nepal
"Nepal’s brutal conflict between Maoist insurgents and security forces has exacted a heavy toll on the civilian population, especially those in contested hill districts, many of whom already live near or on the global poverty threshold. An estimated 12,000 people have been killed since the Maoist faction of the Communist Party of Nepal, officially launched its “people’s war” in February 1996."
In November of last year peace talks ended with the signing of a deal between Prime Minister Girija Prasad Koirala and Maoist leader Prachanda. The deal allows the Maoists to take part in government, and places their weapons under UN monitoring.
Today I read that the first phase of disarming Nepal’s Maoists and registering combatants housed in camps in the Himalayan nation is over. The United Nations called this a key step in a peace deal that ended a deadly civil war.
It seems there have been a few issues with some Maoists in Nepal
"Nepal’s brutal conflict between Maoist insurgents and security forces has exacted a heavy toll on the civilian population, especially those in contested hill districts, many of whom already live near or on the global poverty threshold. An estimated 12,000 people have been killed since the Maoist faction of the Communist Party of Nepal, officially launched its “people’s war” in February 1996."
In November of last year peace talks ended with the signing of a deal between Prime Minister Girija Prasad Koirala and Maoist leader Prachanda. The deal allows the Maoists to take part in government, and places their weapons under UN monitoring.
Today I read that the first phase of disarming Nepal’s Maoists and registering combatants housed in camps in the Himalayan nation is over. The United Nations called this a key step in a peace deal that ended a deadly civil war.
The Treasure Revealers Of Bhutan
So, you've had the Guru Rinpoche primer now lets talk about the tertöns or treasure revealers.
The teachings given by Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century were often written down by Yeshe Tsogyal, one of the queens of Tibet, and then hidden in various places for future generations.
There would be some precise time in the future that these treasures or termas would be found by a tertön - or treasure revealer.
The termas could be physical scrolls, statues, other holy objects, or information hidden in the mindstream of Guru Rinpoche's disciples as reborn spiritual masters, led to discover the terma through dreams, visions, and spontaneous realization.
The discoveries wouldn't happen randomly, not by somebody bumping into a terma somewhere. Padmasambhava predicted very specifically who and when each one would be discovered.
There have been many hundreds of tertöns up to this present day who have revealed thousands of these concealed teachings of Guru Rinpoche.
The teachings given by Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century were often written down by Yeshe Tsogyal, one of the queens of Tibet, and then hidden in various places for future generations.
There would be some precise time in the future that these treasures or termas would be found by a tertön - or treasure revealer.
The termas could be physical scrolls, statues, other holy objects, or information hidden in the mindstream of Guru Rinpoche's disciples as reborn spiritual masters, led to discover the terma through dreams, visions, and spontaneous realization.
The discoveries wouldn't happen randomly, not by somebody bumping into a terma somewhere. Padmasambhava predicted very specifically who and when each one would be discovered.
There have been many hundreds of tertöns up to this present day who have revealed thousands of these concealed teachings of Guru Rinpoche.
Who Was Guru Rinpoche?
For those of you who didn't make it all the way through the wikipedia entry for Padmasabhava I'll give you the reader's digest version.
Padmasambhava, in Sanskrit meaning "lotus-born", is said to have brought Tantric Buddhism to Tibet in the 8th century. In Bhutan and Tibet he is better known as Guru Rinpoche ("Precious Master") where followers of the Nyingma school regard him as the second Buddha.
According to tradition, Padmasambhava was incarnated as an 8 year old child appearing in a lotus blossom floating in Lake Dhanakosha, in the kingdom of Uddiyana, traditionally identified with the Swat Valley of present-day Pakistan. His special nature was recognized by the local king who married him to one of his daughters, Mandarava. Mandarava and Padmasambhava's other main consort, Yeshe Tsogyal, developed into realised practitioners.
Padmasambhava's ability to memorize and comprehend esoteric texts in a single hearing established his reputation as a master above all others. Accused of the mystical killing of an evil minister, he was banished from the court and freely chose to live in a cemetery district. Transiting various heavens and hells, he developed the power to transcend the cycle of birth and death, accomplishing the so-called great transference.
Trisong Deutson, the 38th king of Tibet (742-797), whose kingdom was beset by evil mountain deities invited Padmasambhava to Tibet where he used his tantric powers to subdue the evil deities he encountered along the way, eventually receiving the Emperor's wife, identified with the dakini Yeshey Tsogyel, as a consort. This was in accordance with the tantric principle of not eliminating negative forces but instead redirecting them to fuel the journey toward spiritual awakening. In Tibet he founded the first monastery in the country Samye Gompa, initiated the first monks, and introduced the people to the practice of Tantric Buddhism.
Padmasambhava, in Sanskrit meaning "lotus-born", is said to have brought Tantric Buddhism to Tibet in the 8th century. In Bhutan and Tibet he is better known as Guru Rinpoche ("Precious Master") where followers of the Nyingma school regard him as the second Buddha.
According to tradition, Padmasambhava was incarnated as an 8 year old child appearing in a lotus blossom floating in Lake Dhanakosha, in the kingdom of Uddiyana, traditionally identified with the Swat Valley of present-day Pakistan. His special nature was recognized by the local king who married him to one of his daughters, Mandarava. Mandarava and Padmasambhava's other main consort, Yeshe Tsogyal, developed into realised practitioners.
Padmasambhava's ability to memorize and comprehend esoteric texts in a single hearing established his reputation as a master above all others. Accused of the mystical killing of an evil minister, he was banished from the court and freely chose to live in a cemetery district. Transiting various heavens and hells, he developed the power to transcend the cycle of birth and death, accomplishing the so-called great transference.
Trisong Deutson, the 38th king of Tibet (742-797), whose kingdom was beset by evil mountain deities invited Padmasambhava to Tibet where he used his tantric powers to subdue the evil deities he encountered along the way, eventually receiving the Emperor's wife, identified with the dakini Yeshey Tsogyel, as a consort. This was in accordance with the tantric principle of not eliminating negative forces but instead redirecting them to fuel the journey toward spiritual awakening. In Tibet he founded the first monastery in the country Samye Gompa, initiated the first monks, and introduced the people to the practice of Tantric Buddhism.
In Bhutan he is associated with the famous Taktshang or "Tiger's Nest" monastery built on a sheer cliff wall about 500m above the floor of Paro valley. He flew there from Tibet on the back of his favorite consort, Yeshe Tsogyal, who he transformed into a flying tigress for the purpose of the trip. Later he traveled to Bumthang district to subdue a powerful deity offended by a local king. Padmasambhava's body imprint can be found in the wall of a cave at nearby Kurje Lhakhang temple.
Padmasambhava also hid a number of religious treasures (termas) in lakes, caves, fields and forests of the Himalayan region to be found and interpreted by future tertöns or spiritual treasure finders. According to Tibetan tradition, the Bardo Thodol, (commonly referred to as the Tibetan Book of the Dead) was among these hidden treasures, subsequently discovered by a Tibetan terton, Karma Lingpa.
Maps For Your Pleasure
A lot of Westerners or better put Americans have a tenuous grasp on geography that exists beyond their noses. There are a million different reasons why and this blog isn't the place for a recitation of them. Suffice to say when I mentioned to friends that I was thinking about going to Bhutan a fair number of them had to consult a map to locate said country.
So for those of you, like me, who may struggle with geography here
are some maps:
So for those of you, like me, who may struggle with geography here
are some maps:
Will We Join The Communal BBQ On Our Way To The Caves?
Sounds nice doesn't it?
Well, I suppose I should explain in a little greater detail what this one entails.
Once we get back to Nepal after our time in Bhutan we are gonna cool our heals for about 5 days in the Kathmandu Valley. There will be *plenty* to see and do. I have a couple of ideas for day trips around the Valley one of which includes a visit to the caves in Pharping.
The Padmasambhava Cave in Pharping has its name after Padmashambhava, widely know as Guru Rinpoche. In the 18th century A.D. he meditated in these caves for about 6 months, while he was on his way to Tibet at an invitation by Tibet King Tshering Dechen. As he acquired mystic power, he checked himself by carving his palm print by melting the rock, which can still be seen above the entrance of this cave.
On the way to Pharping there is an important Hindu temple to visit.
Dakshinkali Temple dedicated to Kali, the fearful form of Lord Siva’s consort, Parvati. The main deity in the temple is the black stone, six-armed form of Kali, standing on a prostrated figure.
Dakshinkali is at the south end of the valley between two hills and at the confluence of two rivers. Sacrifices are made two times a week at this temple. The animals sacrificed have to be unsaturated males. Saturday is the main day and there are also sacrifices on Tuesdays.
When I first read about Dakshinkali I wasn't too keen on attending the sacrifice but I've come around to it particularly after one of my coworkers pointed out to me that in the end everyone gets a piece of meat and it turns into a communal bbq. Not so sure my mom will get behind this trip. Might be a solo venture :-)!
Caves at Pharping & Sacrifice At Dakshinkali
Well, I suppose I should explain in a little greater detail what this one entails.
Once we get back to Nepal after our time in Bhutan we are gonna cool our heals for about 5 days in the Kathmandu Valley. There will be *plenty* to see and do. I have a couple of ideas for day trips around the Valley one of which includes a visit to the caves in Pharping.
The Padmasambhava Cave in Pharping has its name after Padmashambhava, widely know as Guru Rinpoche. In the 18th century A.D. he meditated in these caves for about 6 months, while he was on his way to Tibet at an invitation by Tibet King Tshering Dechen. As he acquired mystic power, he checked himself by carving his palm print by melting the rock, which can still be seen above the entrance of this cave.
On the way to Pharping there is an important Hindu temple to visit.
Dakshinkali Temple dedicated to Kali, the fearful form of Lord Siva’s consort, Parvati. The main deity in the temple is the black stone, six-armed form of Kali, standing on a prostrated figure.
Dakshinkali is at the south end of the valley between two hills and at the confluence of two rivers. Sacrifices are made two times a week at this temple. The animals sacrificed have to be unsaturated males. Saturday is the main day and there are also sacrifices on Tuesdays.
When I first read about Dakshinkali I wasn't too keen on attending the sacrifice but I've come around to it particularly after one of my coworkers pointed out to me that in the end everyone gets a piece of meat and it turns into a communal bbq. Not so sure my mom will get behind this trip. Might be a solo venture :-)!
Caves at Pharping & Sacrifice At Dakshinkali
Chortens And Stupas And Gompas - Oh My!
Okay, it's time to break this down for you folks at home.
What's the difference between Chortens, Stupas and Gompas?
Glad you asked because I'm still trying to sort that out for myself.
Let's get with our friend Wikipedia and sort it out:
Gompas are Buddhist temples (typically forming monasteries or nunneries, Sanskrit name vihara), located in Tibet, Ladakh (India), Nepal, and Bhutan. Their design and interior details vary from region to region, however, all follow a general layout of a central prayer hall containing a Buddha statue, benches for the monks or nuns to engage in prayer or meditation and attached living accommodation. The gompa may also be accompanied by any number of stupas.
A stupa (from the Pāli) is a type of Buddhist structure found across the Indian subcontinent, Asia and increasingly in the Western World. Stupas are known in many Southeast Asian countries as chedi (from a Pāli synonym of stupa); in some countries (particularly Sri Lanka) as dagoba (from Sanskrit dhatu- element, component, or relic + garbha - storehouse or repository); or as tope (from Hindi top, derived from Sanskrit stūpa, a heap).
Fundamentally, a stupa is essentially made up of the following five constituents:
What's the difference between Chortens, Stupas and Gompas?
Glad you asked because I'm still trying to sort that out for myself.
Let's get with our friend Wikipedia and sort it out:
Gompas are Buddhist temples (typically forming monasteries or nunneries, Sanskrit name vihara), located in Tibet, Ladakh (India), Nepal, and Bhutan. Their design and interior details vary from region to region, however, all follow a general layout of a central prayer hall containing a Buddha statue, benches for the monks or nuns to engage in prayer or meditation and attached living accommodation. The gompa may also be accompanied by any number of stupas.
A stupa (from the Pāli) is a type of Buddhist structure found across the Indian subcontinent, Asia and increasingly in the Western World. Stupas are known in many Southeast Asian countries as chedi (from a Pāli synonym of stupa); in some countries (particularly Sri Lanka) as dagoba (from Sanskrit dhatu- element, component, or relic + garbha - storehouse or repository); or as tope (from Hindi top, derived from Sanskrit stūpa, a heap).
Fundamentally, a stupa is essentially made up of the following five constituents:
a). A square base
b). A hemispherical dome
c). A conical spire
d). A crescent moon
e). A circular disc
Each of these components is rich in metaphoric content and is identified with one of the five cosmic elements said to make up the entire manifested existence. These are earth, water, fire, air and space.
Chorten is the regional name for a stupa in both Tibet and Bhutan and as my mother and I like to remind each other one must be sure to walk clockwise around the chortens!
One Night In Bangkok And The World's Your Oyster
So sang Murray Head. And now I understand why. You can't get a direct flight to Kathmandu, Nepal without an overnight in Bangkok, Thailand. I'm sort of thrilled at the opportunity to get a tiny taste of the infamous city. Though the big haul across the Pacific brings us to Narita, Japan first for multi-hour stop over. I had a hard time wrapping my head around having to 'stop over' in Japan but as I'm told by other travelers it's pretty common.
So after our sojourn in Bangkok we fly to into the Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu. Instead of diving headfirst into Kathmandu City only to have to extract ourselves 2 days later in order to make out way to Bhutan in time for the Phunaka Festival I thought it would be interesting to focus on a smaller location.
Bodhnath located just North of the Tribhuvan Airport marks the location of one of the largest Tibetan stupa's in the world, a UNESCO world heritage site, and a strong Tibetan Buddhist community in Nepal.
Two pictures of the Tibetan stupa at Bodhnath.
So after our sojourn in Bangkok we fly to into the Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu. Instead of diving headfirst into Kathmandu City only to have to extract ourselves 2 days later in order to make out way to Bhutan in time for the Phunaka Festival I thought it would be interesting to focus on a smaller location.
Bodhnath located just North of the Tribhuvan Airport marks the location of one of the largest Tibetan stupa's in the world, a UNESCO world heritage site, and a strong Tibetan Buddhist community in Nepal.
Two pictures of the Tibetan stupa at Bodhnath.
Saturday, February 17, 2007
Why This Trip?
A lot of people ask me 'why?' when I tell them I'm going to travel in Nepal and Bhutan.
The short answer is 'why not'.
To give a little more perspective and insight here's the longer story:
I've not been out of the country since 2003 unless you count a 4 day trip down to Mexico during the particularly hellacious winter of 2004. The time has come to leave the great US of A.
So why Asia and why this particular part of Asia?
Nepal and Bhutan are very interesting locations; the geographic wonders in these regions speak for themselves - the Himalayas - which we will get to see from a spectacular vantage point when flying from Kathmandu, Nepal to Paro, Bhutan.
The cultures in these countries are fascinating to me. I've studied and practiced a couple of different forms of Buddhist meditation over the last handful of years. A large part of my interest in seeing Bhutan is particular is to witness a Buddhist kingdom; particularly one that has not been overrun by the Chinese.
The other neat thing about spending time in these two countries is that they are both relatively small (especially compared to neighboring China and India) and thus we will not be doing a monstrous amount of driving or flying from city to city. These appeals to the part of me that is dire need of a *vacation*. I want to relax and enjoy myself. In 2000, I traveled to Costa Rica for 2 weeks by myself. It was my first trip solo and to Central America. I tried to do way too much, jetting across the Pacific and Caribbean sides of the country with stop overs through the center to witness volcanoes and butterfly farms. I went horseback riding, hung out in a tiny village where 100 year old sea turtles emerged from the waters of the Atlantic ocean to lay their eggs at night. By the time I returned to San Francisco I was sick and exhausted - I needed a vacation.
So - - - - while this is certainly set to be a big trip I want it to be a small trip in the sense that I want to enjoy myself, the company of my mom and the delights of experiencing an extremely different culture from the one to which I am accustomed.
The short answer is 'why not'.
To give a little more perspective and insight here's the longer story:
I've not been out of the country since 2003 unless you count a 4 day trip down to Mexico during the particularly hellacious winter of 2004. The time has come to leave the great US of A.
So why Asia and why this particular part of Asia?
Nepal and Bhutan are very interesting locations; the geographic wonders in these regions speak for themselves - the Himalayas - which we will get to see from a spectacular vantage point when flying from Kathmandu, Nepal to Paro, Bhutan.
The cultures in these countries are fascinating to me. I've studied and practiced a couple of different forms of Buddhist meditation over the last handful of years. A large part of my interest in seeing Bhutan is particular is to witness a Buddhist kingdom; particularly one that has not been overrun by the Chinese.
The other neat thing about spending time in these two countries is that they are both relatively small (especially compared to neighboring China and India) and thus we will not be doing a monstrous amount of driving or flying from city to city. These appeals to the part of me that is dire need of a *vacation*. I want to relax and enjoy myself. In 2000, I traveled to Costa Rica for 2 weeks by myself. It was my first trip solo and to Central America. I tried to do way too much, jetting across the Pacific and Caribbean sides of the country with stop overs through the center to witness volcanoes and butterfly farms. I went horseback riding, hung out in a tiny village where 100 year old sea turtles emerged from the waters of the Atlantic ocean to lay their eggs at night. By the time I returned to San Francisco I was sick and exhausted - I needed a vacation.
So - - - - while this is certainly set to be a big trip I want it to be a small trip in the sense that I want to enjoy myself, the company of my mom and the delights of experiencing an extremely different culture from the one to which I am accustomed.
Bhutan Itinerary
Here is the itinerary for our time in Bhutan.
Bhutan Magical Kingdom tours with Punakha Festival (06 nights and 07 days).
Bhutan, the fabled Land of the Thunder Dragon - a country of Buddhists and Dzongs (Fortresses), yaks and Blue Sheep, alpine valleys and lofty white peaks was unknown to foreigners untill the mid -1900s. In 1959 Tibet was taken over by China and in 1975 its other neighbor became part of India. Bhutan became surrounded by two giant powers and as a consequence in 1971 join the United Nations to protect itself.
In 1974 the King opened Bhutan's borders to tourism in order to obtain foreign currency. Unfortunately, foreigners did not respect Bhutan's religios customs - photography or religious treasures and bribed Lamas (Monk) to steal sacred scrolls and other precious items for them. In 1987 the king announced changes for the visitors from foreign lands. He closed most of the monastries, sacred institutions, and sanctified mountains to foreigners. Vistors would now be requested to travel with fixed intineraries and lead by Government guides.
Bhutan is a beautiful land. Across its northern border stand the shimmering peaks of the Grand Himalayas, including to sacred mountains: Jomulhari and Gangkar Punsum. Both are home to bharal (Blue sheep) and rare Snow Leopard. Glaciers tumble down slopes, creating mountaintop lakes and rivers that rush through narrow gorges and wind through wide, sloping valleys.
Day 01. Paro- Thimphu. 24th Feb.07 (Distance : 62 Km.- Drive time : Approx. 2 hrs). After going through the entry formalities (Customs and Immigration), you will be met with Bhutan Dragon Adventures representive and drive to Thimphu Upon arrival in Thimphu you will be tranferred to the Hotel.
Day 02. Thimphu - Punakha. 25th Feb, 07 (Distance : 77 Km. Drive Time: Approx. 03 hrs). Early breakfast, drive to Punakha and visit the Punakha Dzong to witness the festival. Punakha festival is the perfect occasion to closely witness Bhutan’s unique culture and traditions, history, legend and religion. In the past Bhutan had used various means of defense strategies to protect its sovereignty from the Tibetan invaders. On the last day, the Punakha Festival portrays one of such defenses with a grand procession of Bhutanese troops marching into the battlefield and commemorating the great victory over the Tibetan invaders in the 17th century. Bring you a closer contact with the people and give you an insight into the Bhutanese lives, beliefs and more.
Punakha Dzong, was the second of Bhutan's Dzongs. For many years when Punakha Dzong was the capital, and until the time of the second king, the Dzong served as the seat of the Government. King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk convened the new National Assembly here in 1952. In the evening make a short hike / walk to Chimi Lakhang, which was built by Lama Drukpa Kuenley in 15th century. He subdued the demons with his" Magical Thunder bolt". The temple is also known as the "Temple of Fertility".
Over night in the Hotel in Wangdue / Punakha.
Day 03. 26th Feb. 07. Punakha / Wangdue – Thimphu (Distance : 77 Km. Drive Time: Approx. 03 hrs)
Today, we will drive to back to Thimphu via Duchula pass (3150 Mts) if the weather is clear, we stop for a while to view Higher Himalayas.
After lunch, visit to the National Momerial Chorten built in 1974 in honour of our late king Jigme Dorji Wangchuk and the Dupthop Lakhang one of the few surviving nunneries in Bhutan. We then visit the National Labrary, stocked with ancient Buddhist manuscripts, and the painting school where traditional art is still kept alive through instruction inthe art of painting Thankas (Sacred Buddhist religous scroll). After lunch visit Simtokha Dzong built in 1627 by Shabdrung , one of the oldest Dzong of Bhutan. Over night in the Hotel
Day 04. 27th Feb.07. Thimphu – Thimphu
After breakfast, drive to Tango / Cheri Monastery. In 1616 Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel visited Tango Monastery and meditated in a cave nearby.
Visit Handicraft Emporium followed by shopping for souvenirs in Thimphu, and in the evening visit Tashi Chodzong,seat of the National Government and the Central Monastic Body, including the summer residence of the Je khenpo (Chef Abbot of Bhutan ).
Over night in the Hotel.
Day 05. 28th Feb.07. Thimphu – Paro (Distance : 62 Km.- Drive time : Approx. 2 hrs)
After breakfast drive to Paro, Visit Ta Dzong built in 656 and renovated in 1968, an ancient watch tower, which now houses the National Museum of Bhutan. Below the Museum is the Rinpung Dzong ( Literally meaning "Heap of Jewels" ), the centre of civil and religious authority in this valley, built in 1646 by Shabdrung.
In the evening explore the ramparts and on a clear day experience an unforgettable view of Mt. Jhomolari (7,314m). On the way back, visit Kichu Lakhang, built in 659 A.D by the Tibetan king Srongsen Gampo. This Monastery is one of the 108 monasteries built across the Himalayan region. The rest of the monastereis lie in the other neighboring Himalayan Countries.Dinner and over night in hotel.
Day 06. 01 March.07. Paro - Paro. Day Excursion to Taksang Monastery
After breakfast a short drive takes us to Satsam Chorten, the trail climbs through beautiful pine forest, many of the trees festooned with spanish moss, and an occasional grove of fluttering prayer flags.
We stop for a rest and light refreshments at the Taksang Cafeteria and then walk a short distance untillwe see, clearly and seemingly within reach, Taksang monastery. The primary Lakhang was built around Guru Rimpoche's meditation cave in 1684 by Paro Penlop, Gyaltse Tenzin Rabgye; this incredible monastery clings to the edges of sheer rock cliff that plunges 900 meters into the valley below. Legend has it that Guru Padmasambhva, the tantric mystic who brought Buddhism to Bhutan in 747 AD, flew here on the back of a flying Tiger , Droji Drolo, said to be his favourite consort. Over night in the Hotel.
Day 07. 02nd March 07. ( Driving distance: 5 km . Time Approx. 20 Minutes )
Early breakfast, drive to Paro Air Port and. fare well.
Tashi Delek !!!
Bhutan Magical Kingdom tours with Punakha Festival (06 nights and 07 days).
Bhutan, the fabled Land of the Thunder Dragon - a country of Buddhists and Dzongs (Fortresses), yaks and Blue Sheep, alpine valleys and lofty white peaks was unknown to foreigners untill the mid -1900s. In 1959 Tibet was taken over by China and in 1975 its other neighbor became part of India. Bhutan became surrounded by two giant powers and as a consequence in 1971 join the United Nations to protect itself.
In 1974 the King opened Bhutan's borders to tourism in order to obtain foreign currency. Unfortunately, foreigners did not respect Bhutan's religios customs - photography or religious treasures and bribed Lamas (Monk) to steal sacred scrolls and other precious items for them. In 1987 the king announced changes for the visitors from foreign lands. He closed most of the monastries, sacred institutions, and sanctified mountains to foreigners. Vistors would now be requested to travel with fixed intineraries and lead by Government guides.
Bhutan is a beautiful land. Across its northern border stand the shimmering peaks of the Grand Himalayas, including to sacred mountains: Jomulhari and Gangkar Punsum. Both are home to bharal (Blue sheep) and rare Snow Leopard. Glaciers tumble down slopes, creating mountaintop lakes and rivers that rush through narrow gorges and wind through wide, sloping valleys.
Day 01. Paro- Thimphu. 24th Feb.07 (Distance : 62 Km.- Drive time : Approx. 2 hrs). After going through the entry formalities (Customs and Immigration), you will be met with Bhutan Dragon Adventures representive and drive to Thimphu Upon arrival in Thimphu you will be tranferred to the Hotel.
Day 02. Thimphu - Punakha. 25th Feb, 07 (Distance : 77 Km. Drive Time: Approx. 03 hrs). Early breakfast, drive to Punakha and visit the Punakha Dzong to witness the festival. Punakha festival is the perfect occasion to closely witness Bhutan’s unique culture and traditions, history, legend and religion. In the past Bhutan had used various means of defense strategies to protect its sovereignty from the Tibetan invaders. On the last day, the Punakha Festival portrays one of such defenses with a grand procession of Bhutanese troops marching into the battlefield and commemorating the great victory over the Tibetan invaders in the 17th century. Bring you a closer contact with the people and give you an insight into the Bhutanese lives, beliefs and more.
Punakha Dzong, was the second of Bhutan's Dzongs. For many years when Punakha Dzong was the capital, and until the time of the second king, the Dzong served as the seat of the Government. King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk convened the new National Assembly here in 1952. In the evening make a short hike / walk to Chimi Lakhang, which was built by Lama Drukpa Kuenley in 15th century. He subdued the demons with his" Magical Thunder bolt". The temple is also known as the "Temple of Fertility".
Over night in the Hotel in Wangdue / Punakha.
Day 03. 26th Feb. 07. Punakha / Wangdue – Thimphu (Distance : 77 Km. Drive Time: Approx. 03 hrs)
Today, we will drive to back to Thimphu via Duchula pass (3150 Mts) if the weather is clear, we stop for a while to view Higher Himalayas.
After lunch, visit to the National Momerial Chorten built in 1974 in honour of our late king Jigme Dorji Wangchuk and the Dupthop Lakhang one of the few surviving nunneries in Bhutan. We then visit the National Labrary, stocked with ancient Buddhist manuscripts, and the painting school where traditional art is still kept alive through instruction inthe art of painting Thankas (Sacred Buddhist religous scroll). After lunch visit Simtokha Dzong built in 1627 by Shabdrung , one of the oldest Dzong of Bhutan. Over night in the Hotel
Day 04. 27th Feb.07. Thimphu – Thimphu
After breakfast, drive to Tango / Cheri Monastery. In 1616 Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel visited Tango Monastery and meditated in a cave nearby.
Visit Handicraft Emporium followed by shopping for souvenirs in Thimphu, and in the evening visit Tashi Chodzong,seat of the National Government and the Central Monastic Body, including the summer residence of the Je khenpo (Chef Abbot of Bhutan ).
Over night in the Hotel.
Day 05. 28th Feb.07. Thimphu – Paro (Distance : 62 Km.- Drive time : Approx. 2 hrs)
After breakfast drive to Paro, Visit Ta Dzong built in 656 and renovated in 1968, an ancient watch tower, which now houses the National Museum of Bhutan. Below the Museum is the Rinpung Dzong ( Literally meaning "Heap of Jewels" ), the centre of civil and religious authority in this valley, built in 1646 by Shabdrung.
In the evening explore the ramparts and on a clear day experience an unforgettable view of Mt. Jhomolari (7,314m). On the way back, visit Kichu Lakhang, built in 659 A.D by the Tibetan king Srongsen Gampo. This Monastery is one of the 108 monasteries built across the Himalayan region. The rest of the monastereis lie in the other neighboring Himalayan Countries.Dinner and over night in hotel.
Day 06. 01 March.07. Paro - Paro. Day Excursion to Taksang Monastery
After breakfast a short drive takes us to Satsam Chorten, the trail climbs through beautiful pine forest, many of the trees festooned with spanish moss, and an occasional grove of fluttering prayer flags.
We stop for a rest and light refreshments at the Taksang Cafeteria and then walk a short distance untillwe see, clearly and seemingly within reach, Taksang monastery. The primary Lakhang was built around Guru Rimpoche's meditation cave in 1684 by Paro Penlop, Gyaltse Tenzin Rabgye; this incredible monastery clings to the edges of sheer rock cliff that plunges 900 meters into the valley below. Legend has it that Guru Padmasambhva, the tantric mystic who brought Buddhism to Bhutan in 747 AD, flew here on the back of a flying Tiger , Droji Drolo, said to be his favourite consort. Over night in the Hotel.
Day 07. 02nd March 07. ( Driving distance: 5 km . Time Approx. 20 Minutes )
Early breakfast, drive to Paro Air Port and. fare well.
Tashi Delek !!!
The Countdown Is On - We Leave Tuesday
Okay, so it's Saturday morning of President's Day Weekend. The weather in San Francisco is *gorgeous* - sunny, not a cloud in the sky. It's the kind of day that in February is to be relished because sooner or later the rains of late winter will arrive and we will all be soaking wet or cooped up indoors.
I am now officially on vacation having finished up my last day at TagAviation yesterday. The 'out of office' auto reply I left went something like this 'I'll be on vacation from Feb.20 through March 7th. I will not have access to email or voicemail. In case of emergency call my director'. And that was that.
The white 3X5 index card containing my remaining to-do's reads:
bank
keys
pharmacy
REI
dry cleaners
blog
Looks like I'm working from the bottom up.
So, here we are, I have no idea how much I will be able or will want to update this thing while I'm traveling. But! At the very least it'll be home to the myriad pics I take on this adventure.
What I can now report is that setting up a trip like this requires a fair amount of time, effort and patience. Not to mention a willingness to get stuck with needles. My good friends and coworkers have all heard about or witnessed my post vaccination woes. I am happy to report that yesterday I received the last shot I'll need for awhile - the twinrix (hepa/hepb combo) did leave me tired and a little sore last night. My first round of shots was a month ago; probably haven't seen anything like that since I was a kid on the child vaccination schedule. Needless to say the experience has given me new appreciation for my immune system.
Aside from having dead viruses injected into your system trip preparation for this part of the world it's all about the details of working with your Bhutanese tour operator as entry into Bhutan is strictly limited for tourists. Nepal is much easier; you pay for a visa upon entry and get to where you're going.
Once again, the interweb proved to be a lifesaver when trying to get to the heart of how things work. My thanks to Adrian Jones for putting together the Bhutan Travel Advice page that appears as part of his larger travel blog. Had I not found this early on in the planning phase I probably would have floundered quite a bit.
I am now officially on vacation having finished up my last day at TagAviation yesterday. The 'out of office' auto reply I left went something like this 'I'll be on vacation from Feb.20 through March 7th. I will not have access to email or voicemail. In case of emergency call my director'. And that was that.
The white 3X5 index card containing my remaining to-do's reads:
bank
keys
pharmacy
REI
dry cleaners
blog
Looks like I'm working from the bottom up.
So, here we are, I have no idea how much I will be able or will want to update this thing while I'm traveling. But! At the very least it'll be home to the myriad pics I take on this adventure.
What I can now report is that setting up a trip like this requires a fair amount of time, effort and patience. Not to mention a willingness to get stuck with needles. My good friends and coworkers have all heard about or witnessed my post vaccination woes. I am happy to report that yesterday I received the last shot I'll need for awhile - the twinrix (hepa/hepb combo) did leave me tired and a little sore last night. My first round of shots was a month ago; probably haven't seen anything like that since I was a kid on the child vaccination schedule. Needless to say the experience has given me new appreciation for my immune system.
Aside from having dead viruses injected into your system trip preparation for this part of the world it's all about the details of working with your Bhutanese tour operator as entry into Bhutan is strictly limited for tourists. Nepal is much easier; you pay for a visa upon entry and get to where you're going.
Once again, the interweb proved to be a lifesaver when trying to get to the heart of how things work. My thanks to Adrian Jones for putting together the Bhutan Travel Advice page that appears as part of his larger travel blog. Had I not found this early on in the planning phase I probably would have floundered quite a bit.
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
I'm Going To Asia Here's The Uber Travel Itinerary
Yes. It's true and we leave in under a week's time.
This is my first trip to Asia. My mom and I are heading to Nepal and Bhutan. All things considered we are covering a very small amount of geography it just happens to be geography that's on the other side of the world from home.
Here's the uber travel itinerary:
Tuesday, Feb 20 - Depart SFO
Wednesday, Feb 21 - Arrive BANGKOK
(Overnight in BANGKOK)
Thursday, Feb 22 - Depart BANGKOK - Arrive KATHMANDU
(Two Overnights In Bodhnath)
Saturday, Feb 24 - Depart KATHMANDU - Arrive PARO
(Six Overnights - See Bhutan Itinerary)
Friday, Mar 2 - Depart PARO - Arrive KATHMANDU
(Four Overnights In KATHMANDU)
Tuesday, Mar 6 - Depart KATHMANDU - Arrive BANGKOK
(Overnight In Bangkok)
Wednesday, Mar 7 - Depart BANGKOK - Arrive SFO
This is my first trip to Asia. My mom and I are heading to Nepal and Bhutan. All things considered we are covering a very small amount of geography it just happens to be geography that's on the other side of the world from home.
Here's the uber travel itinerary:
Tuesday, Feb 20 - Depart SFO
Wednesday, Feb 21 - Arrive BANGKOK
(Overnight in BANGKOK)
Thursday, Feb 22 - Depart BANGKOK - Arrive KATHMANDU
(Two Overnights In Bodhnath)
Saturday, Feb 24 - Depart KATHMANDU - Arrive PARO
(Six Overnights - See Bhutan Itinerary)
Friday, Mar 2 - Depart PARO - Arrive KATHMANDU
(Four Overnights In KATHMANDU)
Tuesday, Mar 6 - Depart KATHMANDU - Arrive BANGKOK
(Overnight In Bangkok)
Wednesday, Mar 7 - Depart BANGKOK - Arrive SFO
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