Saturday, February 24, 2007

There Is A Reason Bhutan Is Called The Last Shangri-La

We arrived in Paro yesterday after a 45 minute flight from Kathmandu during which we got an amazing view of the Himalayan mountain range including Mt. Everest. Seeing those beauties from up in the air was nothing short of breath taking. There is a serenity and also something quite formidable about that mountain range. I understand the allure they hold for climbers and mountaineers but I also think it's completely mad to attempt to climb them.

I have about 5 minutes before we check out of the hotel so I'll just give you the quick highlights.

Bhutan's towns Paro and Thimpu (the country's capital) sit in a valley surrounded by wooded mountain sides. All of the architecture must be made to a structural and aesthetic standard creating the effect of uniformity and purpose. All of the buildings are painted using heavy Buddhist iconography and color.

This morning we drive to Punhaka to witness a festival. Today is the first day of the festival so I'm told we will witness the mask dances that these festivals are known for.

The food has been unusual and delicious. More about that later.

The weather is stellar - warm (60-70 degrees farenheit) with clear skies. I couldn't have asked for a better holiday.

Friday, February 23, 2007

Boudhanath and Pashupatinath

We arrived in Nepal early afternoon yesterday via a lovely flight on Thai Airways from Bangkok. The new international airport in Bangkok which I would bother to google and add proper link for except my net connection is incredibly slow at the moment (you should see the row of batteries sitting next to me; I think they must power the joint).

Upon arrival we got into a taxi and headed to Boudhanath which is just north of the airport. The drive was intense as cab rides in any city can be and the driver's 'friend' who accompanied us was on the make. Like lambs to the slaughter tourists pour out of the airport and we were not an exception as we found out later that we paid way too much for the ride to our guest house in Boudhanath. I figure there's one of those on every trip and at least we now know how much a cab ride to the airport should cost.

The Lotus Guest House - our home for 2 nights before we head out to Bhutan is on the north side of town. Our 'deluxe' room is simple and small by western standards but the grounds of the house are so peaceful it's a delight to retreat to.

Boudhanatha's most important feature is its Tibetan stupa; let it be said the stupa is amazing. There is a large Tibetan community that lives here and as such there are some 30 gompas (monasteries) in the neighborhood. Everywhere you turn you'll see Tibetan monks of every age head shaved and dressed in red robes. Watching the little boy monks play what looks like kickball in the gompa yards brings a smile to my face. These people exude a natural grace that is very quietly inspirational. Needless to say I'm pleased I decided to bring us here first; it's provided a gentle introduction to Nepal and Himalayan culture.

After checking out Boudhanath last night we decided to walk to nearby Pashupatinath this morning where one the largest Hindu temple in the subcontinent rests. The walk along the Nepali highway was longer than we expected and crossing the main roads a bit nerve racking what with cars, buses, motorcycles whizzing about. Hindus and sadhus from all over this part of Asia make pilgrimages to the temple and while anyone may walk around the area non-Hindus are not allowed inside. The Bagmati river flows through Pashipatinath and along the river we found creamtion grounds and indeed a few cremations taking place.

The energy at Pashupatinath is quite different than in Boudhanath. My mother and I were not only allowed inside the Tibetan gompas but asked to sit with the monks to join them in meditation. Aside from a few begging kids hanging out on the outskirts of the stupa circle we were not hustled for money in Boudhanath but in Pashupatinath the tourists get bombarded with women selling beads, men dressed in orange robes ready to smear red pigment on your forehead in exchange for some rupees and seemingly well intentioned men who show up to guide you through the area for a small fee. Ah! To be a tourist.

When we return to Kathmandu after our week in Bhutan we will stay in the center of town. I'm wondering just how full on it's going to be after experiencing the quiet of Boudhanath.

I'm not suffering jet lag too terribly at this point. Mostly the only thing standing in the way of my sleep were the barking dogs that woke both me and my mom up around 3:30am. I've read other travelers complain of Himalayan hounds disrupting their slumber so we brought ear plugs. It was just a riot in a way - we saw loads of dogs around the stupa yesterday afternoon but nearly every single one of them was curled up sleeping while hordes of people walked around them. I guess we simply trade places at nightfall.

As I reread and edit this entry I remember something I was thinking earlier today - there really aren't words to describe the experience here. I can recount aspects of the adventure but it is a land and people so very different from anything I've ever experienced to attempt to describe them just seems a bit futile.

I am taking photos and look forward to sharing those upon my return. In the meanwhile hope you're enjoying what little I can share from here!

Namaste.

PS - Have no clue if I'll be able to post from Bhutan!

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Crossing The International Date Line On Our Way To The Tsechu

Okay, we're now in Japan for our little layover on the way to Bangkok. Narita airport is far more subdued than I imagined a Japanese airport this close to Tokyo might be.

No real excitement except for having seen 4 movies over the course of 11 hours inflight. I think I am officially caught up on mediocre America films. And so you know, I still think Russell Crowe is a terrible actor.

Onto more interesting things, one of the cool things we're going to do while in Bhutan is attend a Tsechu. Tsechus are religious festivals of Drukpa Buddhism. The focal point of the tsechus are the sacred Cham Dances, which are banned in neighbouring Tibet. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingmapa teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.

Most tsechus also feature the unfurling of a thongdrel (or thangka) - a large tapestry typically depicting a seated Guru Rinpoche surrounded by holy beings, the mere viewing of which is said to cleanse the viewer of sin. The thongdrel is unrolled before dawn and rolled up by morning.

Here are some visuals courtesy of utube:



Monday, February 19, 2007

Time, Money And Weather

So .... T minus I don't know how many hours .... or what T minus blah actually means.

We're leaving tomorrow morning; my mom joined me here in San Francisco this afternoon we're about to order to take-out Chinese while we sit and go through the three different currency exchange rates, weather and time changes we're about to get to live through.

Here's the breakdown:

Thailand

GMT/UTC + 07:00 hour

15 Hours Ahead Pacific Standard Time

300 Thai Bhat = 10 US Dollars

Weather: 78 degrees Farenheit currently

Nepal

GMT/UTC + 05:45 hour

13 Hours And 45 Minutes Ahead Of Pacific Standard Time

707.55 Nepali Rupee = 10 US Dollars

Weather: 62 degrees Farenheit currently

Bhutan

GMT/UTC + 06:00 hour

14 Hours Ahead Pacific Standard Time

440 Bhutanese Ngultrum = 10 US Dollars

Weather: 50 degrees Farenheit currently

So, yes, for those of you paying attention there is a 15 minutes time difference between Nepal and Bhutan.

The weather for at least the next 5 days is looking pretty good all the way around. Hopefully this portends very smooth flight schedules.

Sunday, February 18, 2007

Meanwhile In Nepal .....

A few people asked me if it is safe to travel in Nepal. The short answer is - I hope so.

It seems there have been a few issues with some Maoists in Nepal

"Nepal’s brutal conflict between Maoist insurgents and security forces has exacted a heavy toll on the civilian population, especially those in contested hill districts, many of whom already live near or on the global poverty threshold. An estimated 12,000 people have been killed since the Maoist faction of the Communist Party of Nepal, officially launched its “people’s war” in February 1996."

In November of last year peace talks ended with the signing of a deal between Prime Minister Girija Prasad Koirala and Maoist leader Prachanda. The deal allows the Maoists to take part in government, and places their weapons under UN monitoring.

Today I read that the first phase of disarming Nepal’s Maoists and registering combatants housed in camps in the Himalayan nation is over. The United Nations called this a key step in a peace deal that ended a deadly civil war.

The Treasure Revealers Of Bhutan

So, you've had the Guru Rinpoche primer now lets talk about the tertöns or treasure revealers.

The teachings given by Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century were often written down by Yeshe Tsogyal, one of the queens of Tibet, and then hidden in various places for future generations.

There would be some precise time in the future that these treasures or termas would be found by a tertön - or treasure revealer.

The termas could be physical scrolls, statues, other holy objects, or information hidden in the mindstream of Guru Rinpoche's disciples as reborn spiritual masters, led to discover the terma through dreams, visions, and spontaneous realization.

The discoveries wouldn't happen randomly, not by somebody bumping into a terma somewhere. Padmasambhava predicted very specifically who and when each one would be discovered.

There have been many hundreds of tertöns up to this present day who have revealed thousands of these concealed teachings of Guru Rinpoche.

Who Was Guru Rinpoche?

For those of you who didn't make it all the way through the wikipedia entry for Padmasabhava I'll give you the reader's digest version.

Padmasambhava, in Sanskrit meaning "lotus-born", is said to have brought Tantric Buddhism to Tibet in the 8th century. In Bhutan and Tibet he is better known as Guru Rinpoche ("Precious Master") where followers of the Nyingma school regard him as the second Buddha.

According to tradition, Padmasambhava was incarnated as an 8 year old child appearing in a lotus blossom floating in Lake Dhanakosha, in the kingdom of Uddiyana, traditionally identified with the Swat Valley of present-day Pakistan. His special nature was recognized by the local king who married him to one of his daughters, Mandarava. Mandarava and Padmasambhava's other main consort, Yeshe Tsogyal, developed into realised practitioners.

Padmasambhava's ability to memorize and comprehend esoteric texts in a single hearing established his reputation as a master above all others. Accused of the mystical killing of an evil minister, he was banished from the court and freely chose to live in a cemetery district. Transiting various heavens and hells, he developed the power to transcend the cycle of birth and death, accomplishing the so-called great transference.

Trisong Deutson, the 38th king of Tibet (742-797), whose kingdom was beset by evil mountain deities invited Padmasambhava to Tibet where he used his tantric powers to subdue the evil deities he encountered along the way, eventually receiving the Emperor's wife, identified with the dakini Yeshey Tsogyel, as a consort. This was in accordance with the tantric principle of not eliminating negative forces but instead redirecting them to fuel the journey toward spiritual awakening. In Tibet he founded the first monastery in the country Samye Gompa, initiated the first monks, and introduced the people to the practice of Tantric Buddhism.

In Bhutan he is associated with the famous Taktshang or "Tiger's Nest" monastery built on a sheer cliff wall about 500m above the floor of Paro valley. He flew there from Tibet on the back of his favorite consort, Yeshe Tsogyal, who he transformed into a flying tigress for the purpose of the trip. Later he traveled to Bumthang district to subdue a powerful deity offended by a local king. Padmasambhava's body imprint can be found in the wall of a cave at nearby Kurje Lhakhang temple.

Padmasambhava also hid a number of religious treasures (termas) in lakes, caves, fields and forests of the Himalayan region to be found and interpreted by future tertöns or spiritual treasure finders. According to Tibetan tradition, the Bardo Thodol, (commonly referred to as the Tibetan Book of the Dead) was among these hidden treasures, subsequently discovered by a Tibetan terton, Karma Lingpa.

Maps For Your Pleasure

A lot of Westerners or better put Americans have a tenuous grasp on geography that exists beyond their noses. There are a million different reasons why and this blog isn't the place for a recitation of them. Suffice to say when I mentioned to friends that I was thinking about going to Bhutan a fair number of them had to consult a map to locate said country.

So for those of you, like me, who may struggle with geography here are some maps:











Will We Join The Communal BBQ On Our Way To The Caves?

Sounds nice doesn't it?

Well, I suppose I should explain in a little greater detail what this one entails.

Once we get back to Nepal after our time in Bhutan we are gonna cool our heals for about 5 days in the Kathmandu Valley. There will be *plenty* to see and do. I have a couple of ideas for day trips around the Valley one of which includes a visit to the caves in Pharping.

The Padmasambhava Cave in Pharping has its name after Padmashambhava, widely know as Guru Rinpoche. In the 18th century A.D. he meditated in these caves for about 6 months, while he was on his way to Tibet at an invitation by Tibet King Tshering Dechen. As he acquired mystic power, he checked himself by carving his palm print by melting the rock, which can still be seen above the entrance of this cave.

On the way to Pharping there is an important Hindu temple to visit.

Dakshinkali Temple dedicated to Kali, the fearful form of Lord Siva’s consort, Parvati. The main deity in the temple is the black stone, six-armed form of Kali, standing on a prostrated figure.

Dakshinkali
is at the south end of the valley between two hills and at the confluence of two rivers. Sacrifices are made two times a week at this temple. The animals sacrificed have to be unsaturated males. Saturday is the main day and there are also sacrifices on Tuesdays.

When I first read about Dakshinkali I wasn't too keen on attending the sacrifice but I've come around to it particularly after one of my coworkers pointed out to me that in the end everyone gets a piece of meat and it turns into a communal bbq. Not so sure my mom will get behind this trip. Might be a solo venture :-)!

Caves at Pharping & Sacrifice At Dakshinkali

Chortens And Stupas And Gompas - Oh My!

Okay, it's time to break this down for you folks at home.

What's the difference between Chortens, Stupas and Gompas?

Glad you asked because I'm still trying to sort that out for myself.

Let's get with our friend Wikipedia and sort it out:

Gompas are Buddhist temples (typically forming monasteries or nunneries, Sanskrit name vihara), located in Tibet, Ladakh (India), Nepal, and Bhutan. Their design and interior details vary from region to region, however, all follow a general layout of a central prayer hall containing a Buddha statue, benches for the monks or nuns to engage in prayer or meditation and attached living accommodation. The gompa may also be accompanied by any number of stupas.

A stupa (from the Pāli) is a type of Buddhist structure found across the Indian subcontinent, Asia and increasingly in the Western World. Stupas are known in many Southeast Asian countries as chedi (from a Pāli synonym of stupa); in some countries (particularly Sri Lanka) as dagoba (from Sanskrit dhatu- element, component, or relic + garbha - storehouse or repository); or as tope (from Hindi top, derived from Sanskrit stūpa, a heap).

Fundamentally, a stupa is essentially made up of the following five constituents:

a). A square base
b). A hemispherical dome
c). A conical spire
d). A crescent moon
e). A circular disc

Each of these components is rich in metaphoric content and is identified with one of the five cosmic elements said to make up the entire manifested existence. These are earth, water, fire, air and space.

Chorten is the regional name for a stupa in both Tibet and Bhutan and as my mother and I like to remind each other one must be sure to walk clockwise around the chortens!

One Night In Bangkok And The World's Your Oyster

So sang Murray Head. And now I understand why. You can't get a direct flight to Kathmandu, Nepal without an overnight in Bangkok, Thailand. I'm sort of thrilled at the opportunity to get a tiny taste of the infamous city. Though the big haul across the Pacific brings us to Narita, Japan first for multi-hour stop over. I had a hard time wrapping my head around having to 'stop over' in Japan but as I'm told by other travelers it's pretty common.

So after our sojourn in Bangkok we fly to into the Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu. Instead of diving headfirst into Kathmandu City only to have to extract ourselves 2 days later in order to make out way to Bhutan in time for the Phunaka Festival I thought it would be interesting to focus on a smaller location.

Bodhnath located just North of the Tribhuvan Airport marks the location of one of the largest Tibetan stupa's in the world, a UNESCO world heritage site, and a strong Tibetan Buddhist community in Nepal.

Two pictures of the Tibetan stupa at Bodhnath.