We arrived in Nepal early afternoon yesterday via a lovely flight on Thai Airways from Bangkok. The new international airport in Bangkok which I would bother to google and add proper link for except my net connection is incredibly slow at the moment (you should see the row of batteries sitting next to me; I think they must power the joint).
Upon arrival we got into a taxi and headed to Boudhanath which is just north of the airport. The drive was intense as cab rides in any city can be and the driver's 'friend' who accompanied us was on the make. Like lambs to the slaughter tourists pour out of the airport and we were not an exception as we found out later that we paid way too much for the ride to our guest house in Boudhanath. I figure there's one of those on every trip and at least we now know how much a cab ride to the airport should cost.
The Lotus Guest House - our home for 2 nights before we head out to Bhutan is on the north side of town. Our 'deluxe' room is simple and small by western standards but the grounds of the house are so peaceful it's a delight to retreat to.
Boudhanatha's most important feature is its Tibetan stupa; let it be said the stupa is amazing. There is a large Tibetan community that lives here and as such there are some 30 gompas (monasteries) in the neighborhood. Everywhere you turn you'll see Tibetan monks of every age head shaved and dressed in red robes. Watching the little boy monks play what looks like kickball in the gompa yards brings a smile to my face. These people exude a natural grace that is very quietly inspirational. Needless to say I'm pleased I decided to bring us here first; it's provided a gentle introduction to Nepal and Himalayan culture.
After checking out Boudhanath last night we decided to walk to nearby Pashupatinath this morning where one the largest Hindu temple in the subcontinent rests. The walk along the Nepali highway was longer than we expected and crossing the main roads a bit nerve racking what with cars, buses, motorcycles whizzing about. Hindus and sadhus from all over this part of Asia make pilgrimages to the temple and while anyone may walk around the area non-Hindus are not allowed inside. The Bagmati river flows through Pashipatinath and along the river we found creamtion grounds and indeed a few cremations taking place.
The energy at Pashupatinath is quite different than in Boudhanath. My mother and I were not only allowed inside the Tibetan gompas but asked to sit with the monks to join them in meditation. Aside from a few begging kids hanging out on the outskirts of the stupa circle we were not hustled for money in Boudhanath but in Pashupatinath the tourists get bombarded with women selling beads, men dressed in orange robes ready to smear red pigment on your forehead in exchange for some rupees and seemingly well intentioned men who show up to guide you through the area for a small fee. Ah! To be a tourist.
When we return to Kathmandu after our week in Bhutan we will stay in the center of town. I'm wondering just how full on it's going to be after experiencing the quiet of Boudhanath.
I'm not suffering jet lag too terribly at this point. Mostly the only thing standing in the way of my sleep were the barking dogs that woke both me and my mom up around 3:30am. I've read other travelers complain of Himalayan hounds disrupting their slumber so we brought ear plugs. It was just a riot in a way - we saw loads of dogs around the stupa yesterday afternoon but nearly every single one of them was curled up sleeping while hordes of people walked around them. I guess we simply trade places at nightfall.
As I reread and edit this entry I remember something I was thinking earlier today - there really aren't words to describe the experience here. I can recount aspects of the adventure but it is a land and people so very different from anything I've ever experienced to attempt to describe them just seems a bit futile.
I am taking photos and look forward to sharing those upon my return. In the meanwhile hope you're enjoying what little I can share from here!
Namaste.
PS - Have no clue if I'll be able to post from Bhutan!
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